The Main Course

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Angela: The Best



I must ask for your forgiveness for my absence recently.  I lost someone very dear to me a few weeks ago, and have honestly not felt much like writing posts.  This person, my aunt Angela, was an amazing woman who helped make me who I am today.

She came to my family about thirty one years ago to be our live-in nanny, to not only cook and clean, but to help raise my siblings and me.  She didn't speak very much English at all, and had only just recently gotten into the country from Taiwan.  She came to us before I was born so I was extremely fortunate to essentially have two moms raising me.



I honestly don't remember much about when I was growing up.  That's not really true.  I remember a great deal.  I have flashes of images and moments that really stand out.  I remember Angela disciplining me.  Having to stand in the corner.  I remember her letting me sneak down into her room to watch cartoons.  I remember how she used to sneak eggs into my oatmeal to make sure I was eating enough protein.  But most of all I remember the kitchen.  Angela was always in the kitchen.  The kitchen had such a bustle, and an immense quality of life to it because Angela was there.  She became synonymous with the life in the kitchen, constantly cooking another meal, cleaning, prepping, and baking.  Repeat.  There was always laughter and a dark sense of humor about her, an ability to joke around, but also listen, and understand.  She was immensely emotional, and when, at times, we'd argue, she would be hurt, and showed it.  In recent years, Angela had had a difficult time.  Still with us, and still helping to take care of our family, she was sometimes not very happy.  She would clash with my father, or me, which upset her to no end, but would always let it go.  She was amazing at moving past the things that she wanted to get over, and could hold a grudge for a while if she wanted to.

I remember all of these things about her that define who she was to me, but the past few years contain some of the best memories I have of Angela.  She and I spent a lot of time together in the kitchen as she taught me to cook.  She was one of those cooks who never measures, who just knows by feel and taste exactly how much of every ingredient to put in.  At first, it was incredibly frustrating, but when I became more comfortable, suddenly this entire world of cooking was opened to me.  She was the one who taught me how to make burgers, always making stuffed burgers, or other interesting varieties, and getting excited about mixing different ingredients to make something amazing and new.  She and I would cook together, each adding something to the dish we were making, exclaiming, "oh! I know exactly what this should have," before running to get some other key ingredient.  That joy of cooking; that life that cooking brings to a house was something she embodied.  That is what I learned from Angela, what I miss now, and will miss for the rest of my life.  She was my teacher, my mother, and my friend, and to her I will never find enough ways to say "thank you Angela.  I love you."

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Hesburger

Hamburg, Germany
www.hesburger.com/food



The Order:  Hesburger (Double Burger), with shredded iceberg, American cheese, 3 buns, 2 patties, pickle, ketchup, and cucumber & paprika mayo.
Side Order:  Does not come with a side
€3.50
Drink Order:  None
Burger Menu Rating:  5.5/15




Hesburger is a Finnish burger chain, known in Finland as Hese, with locations in Finland, Germany, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Russia, and Ukraine.  It's had a long history, starting in the 1960's, but really began to grow starting in the 1990's.  It has a larger presence in Finland than McDonald's, and blah blah blah.  None of that is important.  There are four in Germany, three of which are in Hamburg, and two of which are located on the Reeperbahn, the area where I was working.  What you need to know about this place, is that the burger, at the right time, is dirt cheap, tasty, and worth every cent.


This lone man handles ordering and making all the burgers here.

During rush hours, I would avoid Hesburger if I had the time to go somewhere else.  With only one person running the establishment, at least at the location on the east side of the Reeperbahn, the guy makes a ton of burgers, beforehand, in order to handle the lunch and dinner-time rush.  What this means, is while they're still tasty, and inexpensive, they're not fresh, and that's where you really get the value on your burger.  During the rush hours, your burger will have been sitting under a heat lamp for an hour or two before you consume it.  The time to go to Hesburger, therefore, is late at night, after a drink or two, perhaps.


Andy LOVES Hesburger.

A coworker of mine, Andy, LOVES Hesburger, and had been trying to get me to go with him for a few weeks, when finally we had time to go together (Andy had been going virtually every day in the interim).  We walked up to the stand, ordered our Hesburgers, Andy also got a Cheeseburger and waited at the hi-tops.  The sole cook/cashier/order-taker/honcho made our burgers quickly, all the while taking the order of a few drunken German tourists, who were also expounding upon Hesburger's many fine qualities.  The two patties are thrown onto the grill, while each piece of bun is lathered with mayo and topped with condiments, including the cucumber and paprika mayo (by far one of the standouts on this burger).  By the time he's done with that, he slides the patties onto the buns, stacks it all together, and wraps it to perfection.


A shot of the meat, looks like he forgot the toppings on the top half.

The burger is simple.  No frills, just consistency and normal fast food burger taste.  The American cheese makes this burger sweet, but buns are lightly toasted and the shredded iceberg is fresh.  The mayo with cucumber and paprika provides a cool and crisp flavor to contrast with richness of the beef and cheese.  They DID forget to put the toppings on the top half of the burger, which is unfortunate.  With this burger, you don't get to order at a specific temperature, nor do you have any really fancy toppings, nor, apparently, do you really even get something all that consistent.  What you get is a freshly made burger that will certainly satisfy your post work/beer cravings.




Cooked Correctly:  1/5 - Medium Well, can't ask for specific temperature
Design:  1/3 - Cucumber&Paprika Mayo!
Plating:  .5/3
Value:  3/3

Monday, February 25, 2013

Walker's Bar

Manhattan, NY
www.walkersnyc.com



The Order:  8oz sirloin burger, medium rare on a sesame seed roll.  Add swiss ($1.25), add mushroom ($1.25), add bacon ($1.25), add sauteed onions ($1.25)
Side Order:  comes with fries
$10.75 + $1.25 + $1.25 + $1.25 + $1.25 = $15.75
Drink Order:  Lagunitas IPA
Burger Menu Rating:  7.5/15




First, I must apologize!  I totally dropped the ball on posting this on time.  Now it's almost a week later, but I'm determined to get this post in before Wednesday's next post.  And I especially failed, because this was my first invited review, although hilariously there was some miscommunication, and they didn't actually know I was coming (oh well).  But still, you have to hand it to a restaurant that invites a review.  That takes balls.  I like balls.

Walker's has been around for about 26 years, in a space that has been a restaurant or pub since the 1880s.  It's a spot all the locals know about, and is praised for being an unpretentious mainstay of Tribeca.  Upon entering, you walk into a spacious bar and seating area with high ceilings, and brick walls, and this looks like all the place has to offer, but it turns out there are two dining rooms nestled in the back behind the bar.  The staff greets you as you enter, and they're generally friendly and helpful amidst the bustle of the lunch hour.

 
The build your own burger menu.

I checked out the menu, and there was only one burger on the menu.  What I hadn't known, before I went in to write the review, was that this is basically a design-your-own-burger.  I immediately asked my server what her recommendation was, and she came out swinging.  Swiss, mushrooms, bacon and sauteed onions.  Okay server lady.

After a short wait (the place wasn't quite busy yet), the burger arrived, piled high with toppings and fries.  Word must have spread around all the waitstaff because when the burger was brought out, there was a lot of cooing over the burger, telling it how nice it looked, while simultaneously looking, and winking, at me.  Seeing other patron's burger brought out, however, made it clear that the cooing was done for me, but the burger was prepared the same as all the others:  a hand-formed patty, piled high with toppings of your choice, and a healthy portion of fries.

 
An uneven patty formation leads to uneven cooking.

This burger had a good medium rare, in the parts where it was medium rare.  The patty itself was a bit lopsided, which explains the uneven cooking, and it was dryer than a lot of the burgers I've had recently, which is probably because of their use of sirloin, as opposed to chuck, or other less lean cuts of beef.  Still, they managed a good sear on the burger.  The problem was that the meat wasn't very well seasoned, and there wasn't very much actual meat taste on this burger.  With the uneven cooking skewing from well done to medium rare, and the grind on the finer side, this burger began with quite a few problems.

 
Close up of the bacon.  Soft, and without very much taste.

The massive amount of toppings on the burger was the standout here.  There was no way to keep it all piled on the burger.  No matter how much I tried, it all just kept gooping out all over the place.  The onions were perfectly cooked, the Swiss was amazingly melty and the mushrooms were cooked JUST enough so they were soft with a good mouthfeel, and added a fine earthy flavor to the burger.  The bacon, however, was a bit of a let down.  I don't mind soft bacon on my burger, but these bacons only had a little bit of flavor to add to the burger.  When the bacon can only add a little in terms of texture and taste, it's time to skip the bacon.

In a time when Brioche dominates the burger bun scene, a classic sesame seed roll is nice to see.  It brings the eater back to backyard BBQs, reminding us that we too can make burgers delicious, and that the everyday Joe need only have the makings of a burger (a bun and a patty) to make a burger.  The bun was well suited to this particular burger, and held up well, absorbing the small amount of juice coming out of the patty.  It was nicely toasted on the inside, but not charred to a crisp.

As I mentioned before, there was a healthy portion of fries as a side to this burger.  I couldn't come close to finishing them.  They were a good medium cut, skin-on, and nicely cooked, but they could've used an extra shake or two, or a roll in a paper towel.  They were EXTREMELY oily, and weren't effectively seasoned.  Some fries had a decent amount of salt, but others had almost none, or had none.

When it comes down to it, and keeping in mind the detriments I pointed out about, this is still a good burger.  It falls into the category of a Pub Burger, the kind that you go out to get for your lunch break from work.  There's a ton of the toppings, there's a lot of fries, and with a beer, it's not all that bad.  Skip the bacon, save yourself $1.25, and suddenly, $14.50 isn't too bad.  Oh, and ask for extra salt on the fries.  Would I go here again?  If I'm in the area, sure.  Walker's has been around for 26 years, it's doing something right.




Cooked Correctly:  3/5
Design:  1.5/4
Plating:  2/3
Value:  1/3

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Arcangelo Burger

Barcelona, Spain
www.arcangeloburger.com



The Order:  The Paradisiaco, medium rare.  Black pepper ham, four cheese sauce, lettuce, tomato, sauteed onion, cucumber and mayonnaise, on a toasted, locally-sourced, artisanal bun.
Side Order:  Does not come with a side (you can add fries for €2.50)
€8.50 (approx $11.45)
Drink Order:  Water
Burger Menu Rating:  10/15




This particular 24 hours had been quite good.  I was in Barcelona for my second day.  I'd woken up relatively late after a long night out, and had eaten a rich and delicious lunch of mussels, potatoes and tuna tartare.  I wandered through Las Ramblas and found street musicians, little free museums and houses designed by Gaudi.  I sat in the Palau de Musica Catalana and listened to Beethoven's 9th Symphony and Carmina Burana.  How could this day get better?  I was walking home, committed to have a free dinner back at the hostel, when I walk right up to a fancy burger restaurant.  What?!  A fancy burger restaurant that just happens to be along my walk back to where I'm staying?!  No I did not plan this.  I wasn't all that hungry, but hey, when in Rome... or Barcelona!

When I walked in, the place was empty - usually not a good sign, but not alarming where I've been in Europe.  Europeans don't seem to have the same fascination with burgers that we do in the US, so I shrugged off my hesitation and asked for a table for one.  There were quite a few interesting burgers on this menu, but the Paradisiaco stood out to me that night because of the four cheese sauce and the black pepper ham.


Such a pretty burger.

This burger was pretty.  When it came out it was open faced, showing off the plating, and letting the color of the ham really pop.  The patty was a bit thin, and the grind a little too coarse, but they made a really good stab at medium rare.  There was a ton of flavor with every bite, but the ham made the burger, on the whole, a bit saltier than it needed to be.  Perhaps the other reason the burger stood out to me was the use of cucumber instead of tomato.  I always love adding a cucumber to the burgers I make at home because it adds a refreshing taste and crunch to the burger that tomatoes don't always capture, and this burger was no different.  As for the rest of the toppings, the mayonnaise added a nice buttery sweetness to the overall flavor, but with the four cheese sauce, it was a bit superfluous, and the bun was nicely crunchy, not burned and not too hard.


A decent stab at medium rare.

I could have done without the lettuce, however.  It didn't add anything to the burger, and to balance out the saltiness of the ham, a green with more heft would have been more appropriate.  This burger was good, and for the price, worth it, but I wish it had come with a side.  I wasn't hungry at the time, but if I'd come for a full meal, I would have left either light in the stomach, or light in the wallet.  The fries are €2.50, and the other sides cost more.




Cooked Correctly:  4/5
Design:  2.5/4
Plating:   2/3
Value:  1.5/3

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

BGR - The Burger Joint

Washington, D.C.
www.bgrtheburgerjoint.com



The Order:  The Wellington, medium rare.  With "roasted mushrooms, caramelized onions, truffle oil, garlic with a touch of mustard seed and blue cheese" on a toasted brioche bun with mojo sauce.
Side Order:  The Gold Standard Fries ($2.89)
$9.29 + $2.89 = $12.18
Drink Order:  Raspberry Coke
Burger Menu Rating:  12.5/15




Recently this blog has seen a lot of burgers from around the country and the world.  Why not continue the trend with BGR - The Burger Joint in Washington D.C.  Keep in mind that many of these reviews are actually from the middle of last year.  My sojourn in Germany made posting reviews extremely difficult, so I have a large stock of reviews to keep posting.  But don't you worry.  I took copious notes for each of these reviews, so they won't be lacking in detail or accuracy.

Founded by Mark Bucher, BGR is a growing burger chain with a strong following.  A number of friends in D.C. mentioned that BGR is in their short list of burger establishments for quality burgers. They have a "large and supremely tasty patty on a delicious brioche bun," says Patrick.  "I want one every day," says my cousin Sammy who also resides in the DC area and works only a few blocks from the Dupont Circle BGR.  Their burgers have a "good beefy flavor and the burger is really big.  Also huge portions of fries," adds Kate.  I'd heard about BGR on a few trips down to D.C. and had opted for one reason or another to try other places.  The last time I went, however, my cousin Sammy was adamant that I go try their burger (she goes often).  Let me tell you, I was not let down.


The Wellington.  Decadence in burger form.

BGR, like many other burger restaurants (Oinkster, Bobby's Burger Palace, etc.) has burgers of the month on rotation.  The Wellington was apparently popular enough to garner a permanent spot on their menu, and I'm glad it did.  When the burger came out it was extremely juicy, cooked to a perfect medium rare.  The patty was coarse ground, formed with a mold, and was well salted to bring out the flavors of the meat.  This is a hefty portion of burger, and well worth it for the price.

 
A perfect medium rare, glistening with fats, and topped with caramelized
onions, mushrooms, and truffle oil.

With roasted mushrooms and caramelized onions, drizzled with truffle oil, piled high and spilling off the burger, this is a decadent burger.  The truffle oil was present in absolutely every bite, which was a fantastic surprise.  I've often found that when eating a burger made with truffle oil, the added flavor doesn't make its way through to my taste buds enough to be a bold statement.  Here, however, the truffle oil mixed with the onions and mushrooms are delicious, and a perfect foil for the understated blue cheese.

Maybe because the other flavors are so strong, the brioche bun was a bit dull.  It performed well with the burger, sopping up the juices, and it was light and airy, but it's own flavor was definitely overwhelmed by the other ingredients.

While BGR offers a decent portion of their Gold Standard fries when added to the size of the burger, they're unfortunately not up to par with their burgers.  A medium-sized cut, the fries were a bit on the well-done side and definitely under-seasoned.  They managed to not taste too oily, but compared to the rich taste of this burger, the fries needed to pack a lot more punch to hold their own.


BGR's The Burger.

On a return trip to BGR, I'd pass on the fries and opt for a shake, or another menu item.  BGR offers an array of other things including an Ahi Tuna Burger and the 9 Pounder, which is actually a 15.4 pound burger that could feed up to 15 people (maybe actually more).




Cooked Correctly:  5/5
Design:  3/4 (I had to take one off because the fries just weren't all that good)
Plating:  1.5/3
Value:  3/3

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

The Bird in Hamburg

Hamburg, Germany
www.thebirdinhamburg.com



The Order:  The Breakfast Burger, medium rare.  Bacon, egg, lettuce, tomato, onion, on an English Muffin.
Side Order:  Comes with fries.
11.50€ (About $15.58)
Drink Order:  Anchor Steam Beer
Burger Menu Rating:  12.5/15




In the fall I spent two months working in Hamburg, Germany.  When I'm not reviewing burgers, I travel for work as a lighting designer and assistant designer for theatrical productions.  I was in Hamburg working on Rocky Das Musical (yes... a musical based on the movie Rocky... actually pretty good), and of course, the first thing I think about, when I find out where I'm going to be working, is hamburgers.  Yes, I was thinking about all of the extremely delicious burgers that I would find all over Hamburg.  They would be spilling out of every door, everywhere I looked there would be amazing meat patties, perfectly formed, oozing deliciousness, and beckoning to me from every which direction.  Sadly this was not to be the case (I also quickly found out that 'Hamburger' in Germany can mean something quite different - a descriptive term, rather than actually a hamburger).

I can't tell you just how frustrating it was to even find a single burger joint!  Sure there was Burger King, and McDonalds (more on this at a later date), and Hesburger (a Finnish burger chain - also more on this later), but I was looking for a great burger.  I was in the City of Burgers was I not?!  Hamburg isn't actually called the City of Burgers as I had led myself to believe.  Now I'm not going to go into the history of hamburgers.  It's a sordid and confusing history with many claims to their creation (for a laugh, check out A Hamburger Today's attempt at tackling the question and read all the comments).  The term was most likely coined here in the US, but the meal's origins point to various places in Asia and Europe.  Let's leave it at that.  So maybe it makes sense that Hamburger doesn't have all that many burger places.  Maybe I was looking for the wrong word?  Whatever the case may be, it took me a while to find a SERIOUS burger, and I found it at The Bird in Hamburg.


Chris perusing the menu.

Hilariously, the owner is from New York.  So it's not even really a hamburger from Hamburg.  Billed as a New York Style restaurant with New York size proportions, at least the burger meat is made fresh daily from German beef.  Walking in and looking at the menu, I could already tell that I would love this place.  When you open the menu, it pleads with the eater to "At least TRY to eat the damn burger with your hands" in response to a general sense of decorum in the European style eating; they use a knife and fork for everything (of course, when I dragged my English friend Chris along, I made him use his hands as well).  In a town where all all the ketchup has a curry flavor, there was regular ketchup on the table: a major plus.


Dear Customers... PLEASE!

All of the burgers looked amazing!  How was I to choose?  I figured that I'd be making a return trip soon anyways, so decided to go for the first one that caught my eye: the Breakfast Burger.  With the order into the kitchen, and our drinks arrived (Anchor Steam!  In Germany! And for 4.50€), I decided to get myself into the kitchen for some pictures.  The owner, Tim, was kind enough to show me around the kitchen as our burgers were being prepared.


The kitchen staff weren't expecting a visitor.


Pre-plating, two with secret crack sauce.


 
Onions, bacon and delicious goodness.


The burgers are done!  Note the English Muffins!


The Breakfast Burger as it arrived.

When the Burger arrived it was glorious-looking.  Served on an English Muffin (I love that), this thing was a hefty burger.  The burger was slightly under-cooked, but apparently there's a different standard for meat temperatures in Germany.  The patty was well balanced, and huge.  It had great fat distribution, a fantastically coarse grind and was well salted, bringing out the meaty flavors to mix with the other ingredients.  The egg was warm with a somewhat runny yolk that was a little burned around the edges, and could have stood to be a little runnier.  The bacon on top was salty, and firm, but not hard.  The other toppings were fresh, though I didn't put the lettuce, tomato or red onion on top.  The English muffin was a bit small for how big this burger was.  If the idea was to create a messy burger, they did a great job.



The fries were good, a perfect size.  They were well salted, and tasty to dip in the ketchup, or the crack sauce (amazingly tasty!), but they got to be a little too greasy as the meal progressed.  The homemade hot sauce was nicely spicy, but a little low on flavor.  It's there, but it doesn't add much more than spice to anything.

All in all a good meal, and a great find in the St. Pauli/Reeperbahn area.  I ended up back there three or four more times.  If you go, I recommend trying the Da Birdhouse, the Big Crack and the Fat Stingy Gonzalez (mmm guacamole and salsa verde done right).  The Dr. Zian is good, but the Stilton Blue Cheese is really strong and doesn't achieve a balanced flavor.




Cooked Correctly (German standard): 5/5
Design: 3/4
Plating: 1.5/3
Value: 3

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Black Duck Cafe

Westport, CT
yelp.com



The Order:  Marty's Wisconsin (Stuffed) Cheddar Burger, medium rare.  Sharp cheddar cheese with sauteed onions, lettuce and tomato (all toppings are free)
Side Order:  Comes with fries or onion rings, and slaw.  I got onion rings.
$10
Drink Order:  Beaver Brewnette
Burger Menu Rating:  6.5/15




Tucked away along the water in Westport, Black Duck Cafe is an establishment that's been around for quite some time.  In a boat.  Down by the river.  I know, I'm sure everyone has said that before.  The boat was built some time in the 1840s and was used as an Ice Barge up and down the east coast.  The boat and its crew would travel up to Maine or New Hampshire and load up with ice, then make its way down the coast selling it all off.  Later on, it was stored in various places, and finally, after a stint in New Jersey, in 1961, a Westport/Saugatuck family bought the ship, used their tow trucks (the family business) to haul the barge on shore and convert it into a restaurant.  Black Duck Cafe has been open since April of 1978 and is coming up on their 35th anniversary (between 1961 and 1978 the barge was used for a handful of other bar/restaurants), but Black Duck, while being a restaurant, is more of a pub.  It features a 40-foot long bar over which you can look out onto the river.

Being a pub, they have the usual pub fare.  Chicken wings, fries, burgers, etc. all abound on this menu.  But what stands out are the "The Duck's now famous Stuffed Burgers" of which there are four.  What does this mean?  It means the cheese on each of these burgers is stuffed into the meat when they make form the patties.  Setting off any alarms?  Usually this overworks the meat right?  Well, Black Duck manages to avoid this somehow.


The stuffed burger's cheese oozing out!

The burger comes with a decent medium grind, and nice thick oozy bits of cheese.  It, unfortunately, was cooked a bit over medium rare, but it had a good char and a good meat taste.  While this could be an excellent burger, the overall theme for this meal was blandness.  The tomatoes were Beefsteak which weren't all that sweet, or tomatoey, or anything really.  The same goes for the bun, which was a bit dry, absorbent, but lacking in flavor.  I was able to try the fries and they were a great thick cut, but again, bland.  The onion rings were pretty tasty actually.  They were soft, and easy to bite through, but on the whole they were way too oily.  They were so oily it felt immediately as if I was sweating out oil.  So, you know, very oily.


Oily onions lurking in the background.

Perhaps it was the specific burger I ordered, or just that day, but it just didn't do it for me, especially for $10, which is the "Big" size.  It also comes in "Bigger" for $12, which I don't think would really be worth it.  There is a decent amount of food on your plate, and the ability to customize your burger for free is definitely a plus, but I don't think I'd order this burger again.  I've got a soft spot when it comes to stuffed burgers because my aunt has been making excellent stuffed burgers for years, so I might be inclined to try this place again.  Perhaps the Jodi's Pepperjack Burger, or the Doctor Proctor's Bleu Cheese Burger.




 Cooked Correctly:  3.5/5
Design:  Build Your Own+Beefstake Tomatoes 1/4
Plating:  1/3
Value:  1/3